DC’s Independent Food Scene: A Work in Progress

Posted on by Sacha Cohen

Freshly baked artisan bread Mark Furstenberg caused quite a stir this week in his Washington Post article “What’s missing from D.C.’s food scene? A lot.” He writes: “I do not believe that we have the elements of a really wonderful food culture.” He paints DC as a hapless wannabe nipping at the heels of established foodie meccas like New Orleans and San Francisco. The results of an “unscientific survey of Washington Post readers” (whatever that means) support his assertion, with 64% saying that “no,” DC is not a great food city.

I agree with Furstenberg that we never really developed a food identity. We don’t have the vibrant food traditions of Chicago’s Greektown or LA’s Koreatown, nor do we have the long-standing local food movement of San Francisco, the BBQ of Kansas City, or the crab cakes of Baltimore.

But the problem with the piece is that it’s all about what we don’t have, rather than what we do. It’s a glass half empty critique of a city that is still finding its food identity. I’ve also been here many years–and I’m excited about where we are going.

Ten years ago, you couldn’t find a good slice of pizza in this town except maybe from Vace. Now there’s Pete’s Apizza, Two Amy’s, District of Pi and countless others.

Great bread? In the past, I’d have said forget about it. Now we have Leonora Bakery and Lyon Bakery.  Beer?  Three independent breweries have recently opened in DC alone, as has Port City in Alexandria.  Every day, I learn about another local food venture that is making the culinary landscape here more interesting. From Union Market to smaller restaurants like the Green Pig and the Red Hen, the movement here is taking shape.

Yes, the ubiquity of chains like Au Bon Pain and Chipotle is depressing, though hardly unique to D.C.  We need to do more as a city to support small markets and independent cafes and restaurants. But the way to do this isn’t by bashing DC, as so many have done in the past. We may never be able to compare to New York, LA, Chicago or San Francisco. We are a fraction of their size and will first and foremost be a government town.

But we can grow into a place with a proud local food community—one that supports independent purveyors like Smucker Farms, Gordy’s Pickle Jar, MOM’s Organic Market, and Souper Girl. I do believe we have the elements of a wonderful food culture; we certainly have the appetite. Just take a stroll around Logan Circle, Clarendon, Del Ray, Columbia Heights or Silver Spring. The only question now is whether developers, landlords, and investors are willing to work together with independent businesses to make it flourish.

Editor’s Note: Shortly after writing this piece, we came across an article by City Paper’s Jessica Sidman, which is a terrific read in support of DC’s food scene. 

Eating Greener: Tips and a Recipe from Aviva Goldfarb

Posted on by Sacha Cohen

Eating green is not just about consuming more spinach, peas, and lettuce.  In her latest book, SOS! The Six O’Clock Scramble to the Rescue; Earth-Friendly, Kid-Pleasing Dinners for Busy Families, renowned meal-planning expert Aviva Goldfarb takes her signature meal planning strategies a step further by advising families on how to also reduce their personal environmental impact through smart dinner-time choices.

Here are some quick tips from the book that everyone can follow to make dinnertime greener:

Eat seasonally. Eating fruits and vegetables that are in season not only tastes better and is smarter for the pocketbook, but it eliminates the carbon emissions caused by shipping foods thousands of miles.  One of the most cost effective and environmentally friendly options is to support your local farmer’s market or Community Supported Agriculture program.

Eat organic – but only when it matters.  We know that organic produce is better for your body and the earth, but since organic products can sometimes cost 50 to 100 percent more, families need to understand when it’s most important to choose organic.  Refer to the Environmental Working Group’s list of the produce highest in pesticides.  These items are worth the extra expense of buying organic to avoid ingesting those potentially harmful chemicals.

Eat more veggies and sustainable seafood. Incorporating more non-meat proteins such as beans, tofu, and eggs into recipes and eating sustainable seafood not only helps families do their part to preserve the planet’s resources, but it also is economical and healthy.

Eliminate food waste. According to the New York Times, a family of four will throw out an average of 24 pounds of fruits and vegetables per month, or by another estimate, 15 percent of their groceries.  By planning a weekly menu, creating and sticking to a grocery list and making only one supermarket trip per week, families will greatly reduce food waste and spoilage.

Grow a garden. Even if it is only a small planter, take the time to plant a small garden.  It is a sustainable source of food, is a fun activity for all ages and will save money on produce.

Reduce supermarket trips. Aim to shop at the supermarket only once per week.  Less trips means less fuel burned, less money wasted and more precious time to enjoy with family

Buy in bulk. Buying in bulk reduces the amount of plastic packaging.  Avoid buying individual “snack packs” and package the goods instead in reusable containers. Buy meat and cheese and freeze into individual or family serving sizes.  And like many environmental strategies, buying in bulk is a great way to reduce the weekly grocery bill.

Reuse and recycle. Recycling and reusing is about more than just recycling newspapers and plastic bottles.  Keep a stock of reusable canvas or nylon bags in the car at all times.  Reuse extra plastic or paper shopping bags for other tasks.  Pack lunches in reusable containers.  Rinse and reuse or recycle aluminum foil, along with other cans, bottles and plastic containers.

Compost. Composting is one of the easiest things the average family can do to reduce their footprint and help the environment naturally.  Turning everyday organic waste (like grass clippings, raked leaves, veggie peelings, and fruit rinds) into rich soil not only reduces the amount of garbage picked up curbside by fossil fuel-operated trucks (then dumped into landfills), but also creates 100-percent natural, organic fertilizer.

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Mango and Black Bean Salad

(From The Six O’Clock Scramble to the Rescue; Earth-Friendly, Kid-Pleasing Dinners for Busy Families)

Prep + Cook = 20 minutes + 20 minutes – 24 hours to chill (optional)

6 servings

Serve with sliced avocados sprinkled with fresh lime juice and lightly salted.

3/4-1 cup quick-cooking brown rice (about 2 cups prepared)
1 can (15 oz.) black beans, drained and rinsed, or 1 ¼ cup cooked black beans
1 – 1 1/2 cups fresh or frozen mango, cut in 1/2-inch chunks
1/4 sweet yellow onion, such as Vidalia, finely diced (about 1 cup)
1/4 cup scallions, green parts only, or chives, finely chopped
1 lime, juice only (2 – 3 Tbsp.)
1/4 cup fresh cilantro, chopped
1/4 tsp. salt, or more to taste
6 large Boston or butter lettuce leaves (optional)
6 whole wheat tortillas for serving (optional)

Cook the rice according to the package directions.  Remove it from the heat immediately when it is done cooking.  (If you want to serve the Mango and Black Bean salad immediately rather than allowing it to chill for a while, put the rice in the freezer for 5 minutes to cool it.)

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the beans, mango, onions, scallions, lime juice, and cilantro.  Combine the rice with the ingredients in the large bowl, season it with the salt, and toss it gently.  Chill it for at least 10 minutes (an hour or more is ideal) and up to 24 hours.

Serve the salad on its own or wrapped in large lettuce leaves or warm tortillas, or both, topped with the sliced avocado, if desired.

Scramble flavor booster:  Stir in fresh cilantro and serve the salad with spicy salsa.

Tip:  If you don’t like raw onions, sauté the onions first until they are lightly browned.  If you have picky eaters, put some of the beans and rice aside before combining all the ingredients and let them have simple black bean and rice burritos with mango on the side.

Side dish suggestion: Peel and slice 2 – 4 avocados and sprinkle them with 1 – 4 tsp. fresh lime juice (about 1 tsp. per avocado) and 1/8 – 1/2 tsp. salt (about 1/8 tsp. per avocado) (or mash the avocados, lime juice and salt to make guacamole.)

Organic Ginger Mashed Sweet Potatoes

Posted on by Sacha Cohen

This Thanksgiving, why not make a simple side dish using some fresh organic ginger and sweet potatoes from a local farmer’s market? Treat your guests to this gingery mashed potato recipe, courtesy of Restaurant Nora.

Gingery Mashed Sweet Potatoes

I like to use the orange variety of sweet potato or Jewell yams.

There are two ways of making this dish. Use one small potato per person.

Option 1:

Rub whole sweet potatoes with olive oil, salt, and pepper, and baked at 400 degrees for about one hour or until soft. Halve the potato lengthwise and scoop out the inside and place in a bowl. Mash with a ½ tablespoon of butter per potato and season with grated fresh ginger (about ½ teaspoon per potato), salt and pepper. Garnish with crystallized ginger (optional).

Option 2:

Peel and thinly sliced raw potatoes. Toss with ½ tablespoon of butter per potato, 1 tablespoon of whole milk or half and half, salt and a pinch of sugar. Place in a saucepan, cover and cook over low heat for about 40 minutes or until soft, stirring from time to time. Mash with a potato masher or fork and flavor with freshly grated ginger. Season with salt and pepper and brown sugar (optional). Garnish with crystallized ginger (optional).


Five Organic/Eco Food Spots

Posted on by Sacha Cohen

In San Francisco or New York, there are organic restaurants and cafes everywhere. In DC, not so much. Like everything else worthwhile in this town, you have to work to find them. Well, not to worry. I’ve done the heavy lifting for you. In no particular order, here are some places (from casual to upscale) where you can chow down and know that you are eating food that’s good for you and for the planet:

1. Java Green Cafe. In bustling Farragut North, JGC is a vegetarian/vegan oasis among the steak houses and chain sandwich joints. Belly up to the counter to order vegetarian fare with a Korean twist such as Udon noodle soup, Boolgogi and Kimchi, plus assorted salad and sandwiches featuring “faux” turkey, chicken, and tuna. Be forewarned: If you go during the lunch-time rush, there’s usually a long line and limited seating.

2. Chix. Newly opened in Shaw, the poultry-centric cafe uses earth-friendly materials in all of its packaging, paper products, cleaning products, and even in its construction materials and interior decor. All of the chicken is 100% natural, free-range, hormone-free, antibiotic- free, and slow roasted over natural charcoal and wood. Many of the sides are organic too including basmati rice and hummus.

3. Hook. In the heart of Georgetown, local celeb-u-chef Barton Seaver cooks up responsibly sourced seafood and local products. Selections from the menu include Yellowfin Tuna with roasted sweet potato, chorizo vinaigrette, citrus, thyme and Wahoo
quinoa cake, pine nut puree, and marinated onions.

4. Vegetate. Located in the Historic Shaw neighborhood, Vegetate “believes in using the best possible ingredients from local and regional farms, purveyors and businesses.” On the menu you’ll find braised cabbage nori rolls, root vegetable noodles, and house made grilled seitan. Half priced wine by the glass every Sunday.

5. Restaurant Nora. You want fancy and organic? This is the place. Founded by internationally renowned chef Nora Pouillon, RN was the first certified organic restaurant in the country and one of the first vegetarian restaurants in DC. The seasonal menu features organic new-American cuisine such as pan-roasted Amish chicken breast stuffed with pistachio pilaf and grassfed beef tenderloin roast with truffled potato gratin. There’s a $66 tasting menu and a $56 vegetarian tasting menu.